I'm on the south coast of NSW so face to face is out.
But it's not as difficult as you might think. There is no absolute "correct" way to do anything in the building process - whatever works for you, with the tools you have. About the only materials that will not be simply available might be the fret wire (any size will do for a first build). I can send you a couple of sticks for the first time. If you make subsequent dulcimers you can get more from Stewart MacDonald (http://www.stewmac.com
). They deliver to Australia in about a week from the USA - no customs duty. Guitar machine tuners can be bought at music stores - low cost ones are OK, but Grover or Gotohs are better.
I've use Australian Red Cedar for backs and sides and it's good. Hoop Pine is OK for a top (the top wood hardly affects the tone of the sound in my opinion - pick it for looks). You can find excellent Western Red Cedar in hardware stores that stock wall panelling, and is a very good top wood - looks nice, easy to work (mind the dust though). Close, straight grain is what you want, quarter sawn. Grain lines about 1mm apart looks good. Back and top blanks will need to be about 1 metre long by about 10cm or wider. Joined down the middle for the full width. Don't worry too much about book matching the two sides of the top and back, it's done for looks and because guitar makers can't usually get suitable width single pieces. Bookmatching won't affect the sound one way or the other. So get your 100cm x 10cm blanks; two for the back, two (of the same wood) for the sides, and two for the top. For your first build you might avoid highly figured wood or curly grain - it can be difficult to plane and work. Go for colour for the back and sides and straight grain for the top. Take the blanks to someone who has a thickness planer, or your college may have one. Get the blanks thickness down to 3mm (the machine operator probably won't want to go below that). 3mm is fine for tops, backs and sides. Make the sides about 50mm high. From each side blank cut off two strips along one edge to use as internal side linings, if you choose to do linings. If you choose to do internal bracing, make them about 8mm square. It's not critical for the first build (nothing is). Use yellow PVA glue. Decide if you want to leave an over hanging (fiddle) edge for tops and back or flush. If you want a fiddle edge then spool clamps make it difficult to clean up the glue squeeze out. If you want to put protective bindings on the sides at the top and bottom, you will need to put internal linings.
A fretboard height of 20mm to 25mm above the top plate is OK, and 30mm to 35mm wide. Medium weight wood is a good start; not so soft it will wear out with playing, but dead straight (a 0.5mm to 1mm "dish" is OK). Arrange the nut to bridge distance so that the bridge sits, say, 30mm to 40mm from the end of the instrument. Plan where the last fret will be prior to cutting out the strum hollow or arches. If you use an arched fretboard I think it's wise to place a cross brace under each fretboard foot. Hollow or arched fretboards don't have different characteristic "sounds" and one isn't necessarily stronger or more stable than the other.
I don't think much of single middle strings, so I only make six string dulcimers. It's no more difficult and hardly more expensive (two machine tuners).
That's my two cents. There will be lots of people out there who have different opinions on everything I've said, and they're right too. Pick out the bits you like and do that - it will turn out OK.